Day 30

Weather:
Overcast with some light evening rain.

Today’s Hike:
Painters Branch Campsite to Stream Campsite (miles marker 257.2) - 17.4 miles

A month into our long journey and I’m feeling great. Physically I’m getting stronger and I have more stamina. Mentally I’m fairing well also, but am struggling with hitting a wall everyday around mid-afternoon. I just want a nap, but my body is ready to keep walking. This afternoon, I hit this wall at the foot of Max Patch Bald. According to the 2008 Thru-Hiker Companion, Max Patch is an old homestead and logging camp that was originally forested, but early inhabitants cleared the mountain top to graze sheep and cattle. The summit also has been used as a landing strip for small planes. In 1982, the U.S. Forest Service purchased the 392-acre grassy-top mountain for the AT and now uses mowing and controlled burns to maintain the balds appearance. The wide summit, at 4,629 feet, offers panoramic views of the Smokies to the South and a glimpse of Mt. Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi to the east.

The views from the summit were spectacular. It was overcast and we could see rain in the distance. We took off our packs and sat back to enjoy the view for a few moments. After about 15 minutes we got up, feeling slightly recharged and started to head North. As we re-started our hike, the wind picked up and before we knew it we were fighting against 60 mph winds. We literally had to lean into the wind just to make sure we didn't fall over. I couldn't stop laughing. Muster, would occasionally turn around to see how I was doing, and she to was laughing. It was insane. I could picture those guys from the weather channel standing out in hurricanes struggling to stay upright. In the moment, I was trying to do the same but with 30 pounds on my back. It was by far the most insanely crazy but most fun experience I had yet on the trail. To cool. It was just the recharge I needed to hike another 7 miles to complete out 17.4 mile day.

Day 29

Weather:
Sunny and cold. Warmed up throughout the day.

Today’s Hike:
Cosby Knob Shelter to Painters Branch Campsite - 12.2 miles

I awoke this morning to 33 degree weather. Snow had blanketed all of the trees on the mountain, but the trail had somehow remained untouched. That’s a phenomenon that still perplexes me. Muster and I layered up and began our descent down and out of GSMNP. As we made our way down the snow began to disappear and the sun was finally making its way through the clouds. By noon, we had shed our layers and were sweating in shorts and a t-shirt. As we left GSMNP behind us, I felt a sense of relief, but I was also semi-disappointed at not seeing a single black bear, coyote, salamander or any other form of wildlife. I saw plenty of their poop.....but never saw them. Bummer.

Day 28

Weather:
Wind, rain, and snow

Today’s Hike:
Pecks Shelter to Cosby Knob Shelter – 13.3 miles

When I woke up this morning, the rain had passed and the sun was trying to peek its head out,. I caught a few glimpses of the vistas I had been missing as I hiked by which was nice, but for the most part I was hiking through a blanket of fog. By noon, the sun was completely gone and the wind and rain returned. By early evening, the rain was turning into snow. I hope I don’t freeze my ass off tonight.

Day 27

Weather:
Overcast and raining.

Today’s Hike:
Newfound Gap to Peck's Shelter - 10.4 miles

Muster & I departed Gatlinburg, TN on this morning by way of Davidson's Taxi Service, and picked up the trail where we left off at Newfound Gap. The weather was typical of the Smokies; overcast and raining. The rain continued throughout the day and turned is currently turning into an overnight thunderstorm over night. We’re seeping in the shelter with Spokes, Nice Lenses, and few other section hikers.

Day 21 - Day 26

Great Smokey Mountains National Park (GSMNP)

Day 21 - 3/22/09 - Fontana Dam Shelter to Mollies Ridge Shelter- 11.3 miles
Day 22 - 3/23/09 - Mollies Ridge Shelter to Derricks Knob Shelter - 11.7 miles
Day 23 - 3/24/09 - Derricks Knob Shelter to Mt. Collins Shelter - 14 miles
Day 24 - 3/25/09 - Mt. Collins Shelter to Newfound Gap/Gaitlinburg - 5 miles
Day 25 - 3/26/09 - Gaitlinburg, TN - 0.0 miles
Day 26 - 3/27/09 - Gaitlinburg, TN - 0.0 miles

Tag Team entering GSMNP

The AT traverses 67.3 miles through one of the most visited National Parks on America. When thinking about hiking through the Smokies, visions of lush green forests, black bears, salamanders, and wildflowers dance in my head. The reality of hiking through the Smokies on a thru-hike, however, is nothing like what I had imagined. In fact, the section of the AT that traverses through GSMNP is often dreaded by many thru-hikers for one reason or another, the main reason being you are suppose to sleep in shelters. Sleeping in shelters is meant to concentrate use within an area, thereby lessening the impact to the environment. I understand this, but to discourage tenting in these areas by threatening to issue a $500.00 fine is ridiculous. Sleeping in shelters sucks. They're dirty, they smell, they're infested with mice, they're cold, and it is guaranteed that there will be at least one person who snores like a grizzly bear. No thank you. If I have to hike 12 miles the next day, sleep is a requirement. I'll take my chances in a tent.

It should also be noted that every shelter within the park only has 4 spaces available to thru-hikers, the rest are for overnight visitors to the park. So, if we were to setup in a shelter with 6 other thru-hikers and an overnight visitor shows up @ anytime during the night (even at 3 am) they have a right to kick us out of the shelter if we're taking up space. That's our tax dollars hard at work, and that's ridiculous to.

It is for this reason that so many of us don't want to deal with hiking through the Smokies. It may seem minor, but think about the days that you go to work on little sleep, and how it takes everything in you to stay awake and be productive. Out here is no different. When we wake up, we have a job to do; to walk from point A to point B with everything we need to survive resting on our back. Not walking is not an option. We are limited by the amount of food we carry, along with other supplies and must make it to our next resupply by a certain date. So, we have to walk on a lack of sleep as a result of those who snored all night and/or the mice and other rodents who consistently scurred by our heads through out all hours of the evening. And unlike the "real world" there is no Starbucks along the trail to stop by for a latte for a recharge.

The other confusing and annoying thing about hiking in the Smokies has been the differences on mileages between points of interests stated in the thru-hiker book and the same points of interests stated on park signs and between park signs. On our second day in the Smokies, we hiked from Mollies Ridge Shelter to Derricks Knob Shelter. In between these two shelters is Spence Field Shelter where we stopped to eat lunch. According to the book, the distance between Mollies Ridge Shelter To Spence Field Shelter is 5.4 miles. According to park signs directing you North on to AT, the distance between these to points was 6.4 miles. According to park signs directing you South on the AT, the distance between these two points was 6.0 miles. And throughout our time in the Smokies this far, this pattern has repeated itself. So my questipn is how far are we actually hiking?????

Ok, so I admit that that was just a lot of bitching. The Smokies isn't all bad though. On our second day, a whole new world opened up. We went from hiking in a monotonousness palette of brown, sleeping forests to hiking on ridge-lines of beautiful open green balds and fir trees reminiscent of the upper North West (at least what I envision the upper NW to look like). The weather has also been spectacular; sunny and not to hot. On our third day, we hiked to Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the AT (6,643 ft.). There aren't any "feet on the ground views" of the surrounding mountains from the AT at this point, but a short hike to an observation tower presented an opportunity to see what we have hiked, what we will hike, what we have been and will be surrounded in. It was breathtaking.

By Tuesday night (our third day in the Smokies) the winds had picked-up and wind gusts of 30-40 miles were becoming more frequent. By 3am, it started raining. So, on Wednesday morning we packed up early, and made the 5 mile hike to Newfound Gap, called a taxi and made hotel reservations at the Red Roof Inn in Gaitlinburg, TN. By noon, we were both clean and fed, and by 3pm feeling rested after an afternoon nap.

We'll return to Newfound Gap on Friday morning with the Tag Team and we should be through the Smokies by Sunday afternoon. By Tuesday, we should be in Hot Springs, NC for our next zero day. Hopefully I will be able to upload new pictures to share with everyone (and correct all my spelling errors with spell check!).

Day 20

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's Hike:
Cody's Gap to Fontana Dam- 9.9 miles

View of From top of Fontana Dam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fontana Hilton  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from Fontana Hilton

Day 19

Weather:
Partly cloudy, no rain.

Today's Hike:
Cheoah Bald to Cody's Gap - 10.7 miles

Last night we had hoped to see the sunset from the top of the bald, but a light rainstorm ushered us into our tents at around 6pm. Around 7:30, the only water hitting the tent fly was was the water falling from the trees above. I stepped out to dry off the tarp, hoping to still see the sunset. Instead I stepped out into a cloud. The entire bald was a shade of mist, spectacular in it's own right. Around 11pm, Cindi and I both woke from a have dazed slumber and stepped out of the tent and were welcomed by the view of a clear sky and stars so bright that the looked like dancing fireflies.

When we woke in the morning, the temperture had dropped tremendously. The thermometers on our packs read 25 degrees. The tent and the forest floor we covered in stingingly cold, but glistening ice crystals. The sun was rising in the east, filling the sky with beautiful shades of orange, pink, and purple. It was a perfect reminder of a reason why life on the trail is so rewarding.

Trail life is amazing simple, yet never boring. Each day presents new challenges, new surprises , and new rewards. But to understand trail life I think you must first understand trail people. I think there is this assumption held by many non-trail hikers that those who walk the trail are dirty, smelly, patchoulli wearing, pot smoking hippies. Although this may be true for some hikers, overall, it is far from reality. We have both been amazed at the diversity of people that are on the trail. Doctors, lawyers, civil engineers, retirees from a variety of backgrounds, war veterians, students, father daughter/son teams.... the list goes on. There are only 2 things all AT hikers have in common; (1) we are all eccentric in our unique way - the more ecentric you are the more memoriable you'll be. Like the person we've collectively named go-go gaitors girl or the famous Minnesota Smith whose very mention of his name makes many cringe in their boots. (2) we all share the same crazy inner impulse to hike 2,175 miles from Georgia to Maine.

Day 18

Weather:
Sunny and cool throughout the day.
Evening rain shower and frost.

Today's Hike:
NOC to Cheoah Bald - 8.1 miles

Today's hike was a straight up climb from NOC (1723 ft) to Cheoah Bald (5062 ft). I did well. I can tell that I'm starting to build my "trail legs." Maybe by the end of this whole thing I'll be a lean-mean-badass-hiking-machine!

We made a pit-stop at the Shelter before the summit (Brown Shelter?). I decided to opted to use the woods after discovering the privy was overflowing.

Privy

Right now I'm sitting on top of Cheoah Bald with Cindi, the Tag Team, Auggie Doggie and the Smith Machine, and the only word that comes to mind is "wow". The view is 275 degrees of amazing vistas. I can't wait for the sun to set. It should be beautiful.

View from Cheoah Bald

Day 17

Weather: Sunny, No Rain

Today's Hike: Nantahala Outdoor Center - 0.0 miles

After hiking 16.3 miles the day before there was no way that either one of us were going to make the treacherous climb out of NOC, so we zeroed with the Tag Team.

Today was a day that zero days are made of; relaxation, beer, laundry, and warm showers. Most of the crew we've been hiking with came down the mountain by lunch time. Around this time Cindi had discovered that the NOC general store sold Fat Tire beer - her favorite - and she hadn't had one in years. She was so excited she bought two.

The afternoon was spent sitting by the riverside chatting with Tag Team and the Packadivas, brainstorming ideas for Cindi's trail name. Given that Cindi and I were a hiking team, it seemed only fitting to name her something that paired her well with my trail name. After
much debate we settled on Ms. Muster. Ms. Muster because she orders me around..... So, that's it, we are offically Katchup & Ms. Muster aka the Condiments.

PackaDivas (L to R): Rocket, Loon, Grommet

Lefty

Day 16

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's Hike:
Wayah Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) - 16.3 miles

Today was a tough one. The original plan was to hike to Wesser Shelter, 10.6 miles North of our starting point. After hiking for about 2 hours we reached Buringtown Gap where there was a sign indicating that there was a trail angel ahead in an orange dome. We rounded the corner and there was this massive Mountain Hardwear dome tent with a big sign across the outside that read "AT Trail Angel". Inside was a trail angel named Apple (who worked for IBM - LOL) who was serving hot coffee, hot chocolate, cookies, and fresh fruit. Yum! One cup of coffee/hot chocolate, three dozen cookies, and one apple later Cindi transformed into the energizer bunny (a first since the start of the hike), and we were both ready to make the 750 ft. climb to Cold Mountain Shelter.

From Cold Mountain Shelter shelter we made our way to Wesser Shelter, arriving there at 3pm. After taking a 30 minute break, the Tag Team showed up and made a call to NOC to find out if rooms were available and to also find out what the latest check-in time was. After finding out that rooms were available and we could check in at anytime we made reservations & the four of us (Tag Team, Cindi, & myself) began our 3,000 ft. decent over 5.7 miles. It was tough, especially on the knees. Cindi & the Tag Team kept a similar pace, and I started falling behind around mile 14.5.

As I was walking down the mountain I was thinking that it would be really nice if the restaurant at NOC had a veggie burger and ice cold beer. I reached NOC about 30 minutes behind everyone else and Cindi ran out of restuarant and yelled across the way that my vegan burger just came out and there was an ice cold beer waiting for me. Heaven. Meanwhile the rest of the crew had downed their first beer and were already half-way through their dinner. Time for me to catch up.

Over dinner The Tag Team & Cindi gave me my trail name: Katch-up. Katch-up because 1) I had used about a half a bottle of ketchup with my dinner, and 2) I'm usually somewhere behind Cindi catching up to her throughout the day. Now it was time to finalize Cindi's Trail Name.

Day 15

Weather:
Overcast and drizzly

Today's Hike:
US 64 (Franklin, NC) to Wayah Bald Shelter - 11.4 miles






We woke up to more rain today. Yuck. But the show must go on I guess. Ron Haven took us, along with the Tag-Team, Lefty, and a few other hikers in his big yellow bus back up to the trailhead at US 64 where I painfully stepped back out in the the Blue Ridge drizzle and continued northward to Wayah Bald Shelter where we are camped out with the Tag-Team and Lefty again. I'm loving this little trail family that we've been traveling with. They make day like today worth it.

Day 14

Weather: Rain all day
Today's Hike: Franklin, NC - 0.0 miles

The rain continued today so we stayed in town. We did laundry over at the Budget Inn and met finally the Packadivas who were also there doing laundry. We had been hearing about them from the Tag Team. We didn't talk to much, but they seem really funny. Hopefully we'll run into them more out on the trail.

We went into town to resupply. No luck on finding new rain jackets. Hopefully the next town will have a better outfitter.

Day 13

Weather:
It rained all day again (and all night).

Today's Hike:
Big Spring Shelter to US 64 - 9.1 miles

I slept OK last night. Lefty didn't snore to bad and the local residents were fairly calm. I woke up with Cindi practically on top of me, and I was confused thinking that I had moved into her space during the night. Apparently, the roof started leaking at about 3am and Cindi was awakened by a stream of water hitting her face, so she moved over to stay dry.

The local residents left us both presents; both my shoes were filled with acorns this morning & Cindi found some acorns in her pack. Thanks for the gifts, but we don't want to carry the extra weight :)

The rain was still pounding down this morning, so we decided to take our time getting out of the shelter and onto the trail. After discussing our options we decided to try and make it to Siler Bald Shelter 12.8 miles away, and bypass the stop over in Franklin, NC. By the time we reached Rock Gap Shelter 5.3 miles from our starting point our packs were soaked, water was seeping through both our rain jackets, and some of our stuff in our packs was getting wet. We still were going to press on. Two hours after leaving Rock Gap Shelter we reached US 64 which leads to Franklin. As we started to cross the highway an AT shuttle pulled up. We were the only hikers there - cold and wet. So we decided that it was fait and we headed into town to get dry.

We are staying at the Sapphire Inn, one of the many places run by Ron Haven and he's taking good care of us. I have showered and eaten almost an entire cheese pizza. My wet stuff is hanging around the room to dry; it looks like a bomb went off in here. Tomorrow we'll be doing laundry and I may be buying a new rain jacket.

Day 12

Weather:
It rained all day.

Today's Hike:
Beech Gap to Big Spring Shelter - 10.0 miles

Today was our first day of hiking in the rain; light rain but constant. My rain gear held up well. It's was hot though; I need to wear fewer layers underneath so I don't sweat so much.

The hike itself was easy until we reached Bear Gap. Then I rock scrambled up Albert Mountain. We met up with the Tag Team (Tagless & Tag-Along) about halfway and we stuck together to the shelter. Right now we're all sitting around in the shelter talking about food, weather, and the local wildlife. There's been a bear reported in the area that has taken peoples packs and "shows no fear of humans." We've all been on the lookout. Lefty says he heard the coyotes at standing Indian last night and Cindi has been hearing the Screech Owls.

Due to the rain, Cindi and I are both going to brave the shelter tonight. Lefty is giving us some pointers on how to deal with the permanent residents (the mice). I want to put the tent up in the shelter to block the wind......but I'm getting some strong objections from my shelter mates so I'll refrain. Tomorrow's going to be a tough day; 12.8 miles to the shelter. Hope I sleep well.

Day 11

Weather:
High/Low - 40 (day got colder)

Today's Hike:
Bly Gap to Beech Gap - 12.1 miles

The first climb today was a dozzie. In fact, I liked it so much I did it twice. I was all the way up our first steep climb when I realized that I had left my crocs at camp. After shouting out some choice words to myself I stopped for a moment contemplating my choices; forward on and leave the crocs OR drop my pack and go back and get them. Cindi was already ahead of me and had no idea what was going on, but I knew she should be expecting me to show up any minute. Still, I decided to drop my pack and go back. Thirty minutes later she was standing near the summit of whatever mountain we were climbing cursing my name saying I gave her a heart attack. Oops......did I do that?

We spent most of our first day in NC climbing. We reached Standing Indian Shelter around 2pm and decided to press on. The guidebook indicated a campsite and water at the next summit.
The trail between the shelter and the summit was very rocky and rough on my feet. The leaves were so thick along the trail in some places that I couldn't see the trail (or the rocks....or the tree stems...) underneath which resulted in rolling ankles and a string a curse words several times.

We reached the summit around 4pm, and started following the blue blazes to the water/campsite but we weren't having much luck with finding the water. It was 2.9 miles to the next campsite. We were both done for the day, but we needed water for dinner so after much resistance we decided to press on; it should only take 2 hours. We reached Beech Gap just before 6pm, and we were both completely wiped out. I looked at Cindi, "Never Again". We both nodded. An hour later I was in the tent and ready for bed.

Day 10

Weather:
Low-55 High-70
Partly cloudy - looked like rain most of the day

Today's Hike:
Dicks Creek Gap to Bly Gap - 9.0 miles

We accomplished our first milestone today by crossing the border from GA to NC. The new state will bring us to new heights (literally) and leave behind some of the most difficult portions of the AT.

Today was slow going but I was is good spirits. I was feeling pretty sluggish and couldn't seem to find my energy, but was happy to be back out on the trail. Cindi's foot is still healing, and I can tell that its painful for her walk on.

We're camping on the NC/GA Border tonight at a place called Bly Gap along with a retired couple, Tagless and Tag-Along, and Lefty. It's just after 6pm and I'm already getting ready for bed.

Day 9

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's Hike:
Hiawassee Inn - 0.0 miles

Today is our first zero day from the trail. Its been nice to just relax. I have spent the morning chatting with the Inn owners and other hikers while Cindi has been in the room caring for her feet. Ron (one of the Inn owners) went over to Rite Aid and bought some Epson salt for her to soak her feet in. Currently, Cindi's foot is so swollen that she can barely put on her shoes. I'm not sure what this means for hiking out tomorrow.....we'll see what happens. I just got back from eating lunch @ the local Mexican Restaurant and am slowly making my way back to the Inn. I'm ready for a nap! I think I'll take advantage of it while I have the chance.

Day 8

Weather:
Sunny and warn. No rain.

Today's Hike:
Sassafras Gap to Dicks Creek Gap - 6.2 miles

Cindi has had a blister forming on her pinkie toe over the last few days. She's been wrapping it and using moleskin but to no avail it seems to be getting worse instead of better. She suggested going into Hiawassee to get off her feet, and I agreed. So we got packed and ready, and headed toward Dicks Creek Gap in hopes of making it into town.

The morning began with a hike over Kelly Knob, a climb of 972 ft. within a mile. I had a good breakfast so it wasn't to bad. The wind was insane though - it was like hiking through a wind tunnel. The rest of the hike was moderate with the last 1.6 miles going straight down hill. I hate hiking down hill, well, at least my knees hate hiking downhill.

We reached Dicks Creek Gap by 1pm, and Joyce, an AT shuttle driver was magically there (trail angel number 2). Thank goodness cause there was no cell service at the Gap and we would have never made the 11 mile hike into town.

We're staying at the Hiawassee Inn which is very hiker friendly. Ron and Sam run the Inn and have been working their tails off to accommodate all the hikers that flooded in this morning (there were 9 of us). They even went so far as to give us clean clothes and do our laundry for us. Tomorrow they'll have breakfast cooked and they provide a shuttle back to the trail.

As soon as we got to the room I went and got food; a foot long veggie sub and chocolate chip cookies from Subway. Yummy! For dinner, there was a shuttle for everyone to Daniels, an all you can eat (AYCE) buffet. It was OK but nothing to rave about. That may be partially do to the fact that its still hard for me to eat. I think (hope) that that will change as I continue on, and I'm sure I'll reach a point that any place in town that serves 'real' food, especially somewhere that is AYCE will be like heaven.

We are spending our evening in a nice warm bed watching our favorite TV show, the Closer.

Day 7

Weather:
Low - 45 High - 70

Today's Hike:
Blue Mountain Shelter to Sassafras Gap - 12.6 miles

Today's hike was a bear! Up 1,000 ft. down 800 ft. up 1,000 ft. down 900 ft. ....... you get the picture. To say it was challenging would be an understatement. Rather, today was one of those days that you break out the iPod and find a place that transcends the current reality.

Day 6

Weather:
Low - 50,  High - 70

Today's Hike:
White Oak Stamp to Blue Mtn. Shelter - 10.7 miles

Today's hike was pretty easy but exhausting at the same time. My watch was 2 hours ahead, so we thought we didn't get on the trail until 10 am (we actually were on the trail by 8am) so we were hiking like mad women until noon when we realized the mishap. Relief and frustration that made it difficult. Today was the first day I hiked in shorts and a t-shirt. It's hard to believe that 5 days ago I was hiking in 3 inches of snow.

We had our first trail angel experience today. Trail angels are those wonderful people who spontaneously decide to leave cold sodas or home-baked goodies at shelters or along the trail for hungry and tired hikers. Our angels were a group of Georgia AT Club crew men doing work on the trail. They brought ice cold Cokes and Girl Scout cookies. I don't think a Coke has or will ever taste so good. It was a little piece of heaven on a very hot and exhausting day.

On a more general note, my feet are doing pretty good. No blisters yet, but my toes are still tingly and numb. I think that that's just how they'll be throughout the thru-hike - and from what I hear for awhile after we're done.

My left shoulder is hurting again. I thought I had it nipped in the bud when I stopped using my trekking pole and the pain went away. Now I just keep readjusting my pack throughout the day and take an anti-inflammatory at night (aka vitamin I).

My "hiker hunger" is starting to set in. I can tell such a difference in my energy level depending on the food I eat. High calorie and high fat equals lots of energy. This makes eating vegan on the trail a little difficult. All my food in my mail drops is vegan but most of my stuff doesn't have enough calories to sustain me. Eating in town is also challenging. So, I'm doing the best I can, eating vegan when I can and vegetarian when I don't have the choice or am in desperate need of calories.

Day 5

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's HIke:
Neel's Gap to White Oak Stamp - 6.9 miles

I had a great night at the hostel. I slept well, showered, and ate lots of food. I was ready to hike. Before heading out on the trail we both needed to stop into Mountain Crossings for some new gear and a pack shakedown.

New Shoes - I have lost all normal sensation in my toes on both feet. All I feel is a mix a numbness and pain. I originally thought it was from the freezing cold weather, but later figured out (with the help of others) that my shoes weren't big enough for hiking. For a well fitted pair of hiking boots, you should be able to stick 2 fingers between the back of your heel and the shoe. I could barely put one finger between the back of my heel and my shoe. So, I switched out my Merrell hiking shoes for a pair of Keens.

New Sleeping Bag - I froze my butt and my feet off all week in my Marmot Pounder Plus synthetic sleeping bag (rated for 25 degrees). To my dismay, there were no ultralight weight synthetic sleeping bags at Mountain Crossings so I had to suck it up and buy a down sleeping bag (Western Mountaineering Versalite). It's sooooo warm! I'm considering it to me a guilty pleasure.

New Platypus - At the advice of my hiking partner, I had started y hike with a Sawyer inline water filter. These filters require you to cut the line of your platypus (water bag & hose/straw) to install the water filter. In addition, the filter can not freeze. So, we made sure the filter portion of the hose was in our packs and insulated but it was so cold outside when we started our thru-hike at Amicalola that our water lines and filters froze in the first hour. So I had to buy a new platypus and new water treatment (Aqumira).

After selecting out new gear, I participated in the famous Backpacker shakedown. The "shakedown" is one of the free services that Mountain Crossings provides all hikers that come through their store. Essentially what this means is someone with thru-hiking experience goes through everything in your pack and tells you what you can send home or switch out for another piece of gear in order to make your pack lighter. A long story short; I sent home approximately 7 lbs. of stuff; most of which was replaced with new gear for one reason or another. My pack (with food and water) now weighs between 28-30 lbs.

After the shakedown I packed up my bag, made a phone call home, and got ready to hit the trail. I had so much energy today! It's amazing what a good nights sleep and a 700 calorie breakfast will do to boost your hiking enthusiasm.

Day 4

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's Hike:
Big Cedar Mountain to Neel's Gap - 9.6 miles

We were hiking in 3-4 foot snow drifts for at least 75 percent of the day which was a pain in the ass. It's like walking through sugar sand at the beach with 30 lbs. on your back. Not the most ideal, but hey, what can ya do? The trail is the trail and one way or another that trail leads to Katadhin.

The afternoon was fun though, at least for me. We had our toughest hike yet up Blood Mountain (the highest point in GA along the AT) which is a climb from 3,600 feet at Woods Hole Shelter turn- off to 4,461 feet within 1.3 miles. The hike reminded me of hiking in Joyce Kilmer Wilderness in Nantahala National Forest. The terrain is a little rocky, and the trail sides are lined with rhododendrons, and great vista views of the blue ridge mountains along rocky outcrops. When we reached the top, I met and had a great time talking to a father/son team of day-hikers/future AT hikers.

On the way down I was practically jogging all the way to Mountain Crossings at Neel's Gap. I couldn't wait to get a shower and stuff my face with food. When I reached the Gap the bunk house was full so we went to an off-site cabin down by Helton Creek Falls (also ran by Mountain Crossings). After securing a place to recoup for the evening, I bought a large cheese Tombstone pizza and ate it all!

This hostel was awesome; way better then sleeping at the bunks at Mountain Crossings. Also staying at the hostel were three hikers; Armageddon, Ramblin Man, and Cool Breeze. I would like to extend a huge thank you to Armageddon who moved to the sofa bed in the living room because he said he snored like a B52. This meant Cindi and I had a room to ourselves to sleep in peace and quite and it also meant that I didn't pay 15 bucks to stay in a bunk house full of people who snored like grizzly bears and lose sleep. Definitely worth the extra 5 bucks.

Day 3

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's Hike:
Cooper Gap to Big Cedar Mountain - 9.8 miles.

Today was a fairly good day. I slept last night, and I didn't completely freeze my ass off. Notice I said completely.

The hike was much easier today then yesterday and we made much better timing. I also hiked without trekking poles which was much easier on my shoulder which has been in pain for the past two days.

Eating is hard out here which seems kind of ironic. I would have thought that all the increased physical activity would make me ravishing all the time, but instead I seem to have no appetite at all. I didn't eat enough the first day and felt sick and had to force myself to eat a big lunch yesterday. I took a few hours but I felt better.

Looking forward to reaching Neels Gap tomorrow and taking my first hot shower in five days!

Day 2

Weather:
Cold and sunny. No Rain.

Today's Hike:
Stover Creek Shelter to Cooper Gap - 9.0 miles

I have a new definition of freezing. Freezing is when you wake up outside and its 10 degrees, your sleeping bag is covered in ice, you put your already numb toes into your frozen boots then hobble down to a privy and hover your butt over a frozen snowed covered toilet seat with an up draft. That's freakin' freezing.

I also learned two major lessons from only one day on the trail. Lesson #1, if you have a choice between sleeping in a tent or sleeping in a shelter, sleep in the tent.  Last night got down to 7 degrees and I'm still questioning on if I actually survived that or if this is just what the after life is like. Being in the shelter left me completely exposed to the cold, gave my ears a front row seat to the chorus of snores, and my sleeping bag go wet from something leaking from the ceiling above me.

Lesson # 2, when its freezing outside, put your socks and shoes in the your sleeping bag with you so they don't freeze. I'm not so sure that I've experienced anything more painful then putting on frozen shoes. My toes hurt so bad that they're still tingling 10 hours after I put them on.

Today was hard. Sasafras "kick your ass" mountain really did kick my ass. We wanted to make it to Justis Creek Footbridge but we didn't have enough time so we found a campsite just north of Cooper Gap. We're doing good at making up time so that we can still make it to Neel's Gap on Thursday. I just hope we don't over do it, but the thought of a hot shower and a bunk bed in a heated room is a good motivator. Sleeping in this 10 degree weather is for birds. However, sleeping in our tent is much warmer (and quieter) then sleeping in a shelter.

Day 1

Weather:
Sunny and Cold. No Rain.

Today's Hike:
Amicalola Falls Lodge to Stover Creek Shelter - 10.6 miles



Cindi and I left the lodge this morning by 7:30am. The snow storm from the previous day had passed and everything was covered in a blanket of white. Absolutely beautiful, and very very cold. The thermometer on the wall read 20 degrees. I bundled up and headed out the door behind Cindi. I couldn't believe it; I'm actually out here. I'm taking the first steps for one of the biggest journeys of my life. I'm heading toward the Appalachian Trail. I'm gonna do this.

By twenty minutes into the hike my nose was running like a faucet. I was so cold. I dug out my bandanna and wrapped it around my mouth and nose to help keep my face warm. My fingers were also numb despite the gloves I was wearing. I just kept moving forward. I could feel the adrenaline running through me. I wanted to shout at the top of my lungs "I'M HIKING THE AT!" but instead I just smiled to myself and kept on a mission to stay warm.

I reached the sign for the Hikers Inn around 10am. I looked at my guide book and shouted to Cindi that we had already hiked 4.5 miles. I was so proud of us. We were doing awesome! A few hours later we reached the top of Springer where we met Many Sleeps. He was out there working for the ATC, collecting hiker names. After a quick survey and our first privy break we decided to move on to the next shelter since it was only a little after noon.

We reached Stover Creek Shelter by 2:45pm and decided to call it a day. Cindi thought we would be better off staying in the shelter tonight rather then setting up the tent on the wet snow. I'm currently freezing my butt off, praying to mother nature that I'll make it through the night.

Moving Start Date

The day has finally arrived. My pack is ready to go and my adrenaline is pumping. Unfortunately, there is a severe winter storm headed this way, that includes several inches of snow and 40 mph wind gusts. So..... the start dates has been postponed until tomorrow. The weather will be sunny for the rest of the week, which will make hiking much more enjoyable.

So now Cindi and I wait at Amicalola Falls State Park Lodge for one more day.