Sunday, September 27, 2009

Frequently Asked Questions about thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail

What direction did I hike?

Northbound

Did I do the approach trail?

Yes. You are about to hike 2,170+ miles....hike the other eight. You won't regret it.

When did I start?

March 2, 2009. I had intended on starting on March 1st, but a bad snow storm blew through on the first. I waited the storm out at Amicalola Fall Lodge.

How much did I carry?

The weight of my pack varied. The most I every carried was around 36 lbs. coming out of Damascus, VA, but the average weight was somewhere around 30 lbs. You can find more information about what I carried here.

What Guidebook/Maps did I use?

I used AWOL's AT  Guide. I loved the daily mileage breakdown and the profile views of the trail section I was hiking. I also really loved the perforated pages that I could tear out. I would tear out the pages I was hiking that day and carry them in my side pocket for easy access. It did a good job at covering town resupplies and overnight stays (hotels, hostels) as well. The trail is so well marked that I personally don't see a need to carry additional maps. 

What did I eat?

In short, a lot of freeze dried foods and protein bars. I'm vegetarian and I had no problem eating along the trail. Below are a list of some of the foods I would eat for a given meal. The amount of food I ate changed along the way. Surprisingly, I had no appetite at the beginning of my hike and I had to force myself to eat, however, this didn't last long (thank goodness!). I went from being able to eat only half a Lipton rice meal or box of Velveta mac and cheese to devouring the entire portion and still being hungry. By the time I reached Maine, I was dipping everything in peanut butter because I was hungry all the time and I was hoping the fat in the peanut butter would help slow digestion and keep me fuller longer.

Breakfast
Pop Tarts mostly, but I also ate cereal, honey buns, and bagels. Lots of hikers also drank carnation instant breakfasts and added protein mix to them. I tried this but the carnation mix didn't agree with my stomach.

Lunch
Bagels or wraps with peanut butter and jelly; refried beans and cheese on a wrap, cheese and crackers

Dinner
Pasta (angel hair or vermicelli if available - think cook time and fuel usage!) with pasta sauce; Lipton rice meals; Mac and Cheese

Snacks
Protein Bars (Cliff Bars mostly); granola bars, trail mix; dried fruit
One of my favorite things to do was pack out an apple or two along with a Coke and save it until I had been back on trail for 2 or 3 days. Eating this in between town stops was such a treat!

Desserts
Candy bars; Jelly beans; Sour Patch Kids
I'd also pack out wine occasionally (after pouring in into a Gatorade bottle of course!)

Resupply: Town or Mail Drops?

I did both, but recommend resupplying in town over mail drops with a few exceptions. I had originally planned on doing all mail drops but quickly learned that my tastes changed dramatically on the trail. What I thought I would want along the trail was not really what I wanted to eat after a long day of hiking. If you are planning on mail drops, I highly recommend trying out your food ahead of time. Go for a long hike or go exercise and come home at eat a meal.

Places I would mail drop to:

Atkins, VA. I resupplied at a gas station here. Although I made it work it was an experience I would choose not to repeat. At the time of this post, hikers are able to send mail drops to the Relax Inn, which was right next to the convenient store but double check this with the current years data book.

In Rangely, ME there is an IGA to resupply at. Here I bought enough food to put together a mail drop for myself and sent it to the Northern Outdoor Center in Caratunk. ME. Honestly, there are plenty of other places along the trail that I should have done this, unfortunately those places are eluding me at the moment. What I recommend is looking ahead when you're in a town with a good resupply point. What does your next resupply point look like? Is it a grocery store? A convenient store? Hostel? If it's not a grocery store I would recommend buying enough food at the good resupply point and doing a mail drop to yourself. This way you know you're getting a decent resupply.

When did I trade out winter/summer gear?

I sent home a pair of long johns, a long sleeve shirt, and my light weight fleece in Damascus, VA but I kept my winter bag (Western Mountainer Versalite 10 degree bag). I actually never switched out my winter bag for my summer bag because I had such a mild summer and I tend to sleep very cold. There was about 2-3 weeks that I was sticky and hot at night, but over all I was very happy with my decision. I do recommend hanging on to at least your winter bag until Pearisburg, VA. I remember the nights still getting pretty cold, even the night out of Pearisburg was chilly. I also carried my MontBell Thermwrap jacket the entire way. This came in handy on those chilly nights. Since I kept my bag and my jacket I didn't need to get a mail drop of winter gear sent back to me, but if I had needed it I would have gotten it sent to Glenncliff, NH before entering the Whites.

How many pairs of shoes did you go through?

Four (Keens, Montrail Hardrocks, and Vasque Trail Runners). only buy the pair you are starting with
and be sure to buy them big enough. Expect your feet to swell when you hike. You'll want your shoes to have enough room to accommodate swelling and you'll want enough room in the toes of your shoes that your toes aren't jamming into the foot of the shoe while walking down hill.

I bought my shoes at outfitters along/near the trail as I hiked. This is an approach that I highly recommend if this is your first time thru-hiking. I went from wearing a size 9.5 to a size 11.0. My feet flattened out and swelled a lot.

Did you have any issues with bears? 

I did not have any issues with bears, although I had one heart-stopping encounter in Shenandoah National Park. In Georgia and North Carolina there were signs posted about high bear activity near some of the shelters. Take these signs seriously! Don't cook in your tent, and hang your food. Although I did not have any issues a few people did get there packs stolen by bears. Be bear smart.


What was the most surprising wildlife encounter?

I saw a HUGE coyote in Vermont one morning. Scared the snot out of me.


Did I hitch-hike?

Yes (Sorry mom and dad). I hitch hiked a lot, but always in the bed of someones truck.

Did you have any creepy encounters with people on the trail?

No, but I also used a lot of common sense while I was hiking. The biggest rule of thumb was not to camp within a mile of ANY road; go further when at all possible.  After being out on the trail for awhile you will have no problems picking out thru-hikers from day-hikers and hikers from weird people. If something doesn't feel right trust your gut and move on.


How much did you spend?

I spent approximately $6,000. The break down essentially covered approximately $2500 in gear and  $500/month on the trail (it took me 6.5 months). You'll want some extra money left over to travel back home. If you are not on a hard deadline I recommend trying to save an additional month of expenses. Unexpected events will happen all the time; your gear will break, the weather will be awful, you may get sick. All of these things may cause your hike to expend for a longer period of time then you originally planned. Its better to have to much money saved then having to end your hike short of your goal because you ran out of money.

Did you train for the hike?

A little, but not enough. Thru-hiking is tough on your body and while many argue that the only way to prepare your body for a thru-hike is to thru-hike, I disagree. The fitter and healthier you are before starting your hike the easier time you will have adjusting to trail life. I highly recommend getting in the gym to strength train 2-3 times a week and work on your endurance. If you are lucky enough to already live in the mountains, take your pack out on as many day hikes as you can. You'll be thankful you did later.










Friday, September 25, 2009

Returning Home

Despite our late night both Grom and I were unable to sleep in. Like clockwork we were up at 6am, and my legs were itching to move. Little did they know they would be jailed up in a car all day. Eventually we made our way to the Boston airport thanks to Twix and we picked up our rental car. By 9am our journey began, our very long, long journey. Grommet had to make it to North Carolina to be at her job the next morning. The drive should have been 14 hours. The drive was actually 18 hours thanks to a flaming car on some toll road in New York. Fun times. Still, we made it to North Carolina and Grom made it to her job on time.

I took that Monday to recover and catch up on some seep before finishing my journey home to my parents house the following day. My car ride home was almost as adventurous. I downloaded directions from google maps and didn't bother to double check them before leaving North Carolina. Big mistake. I drove 60 miles out of my way, fantastic. Still yet again I arrived at my parents before midnight and was welcomed with huge smiles and big hugs. It was really great to see both my mom and dad after being away for so long.

I spent the next two days with my parents, taking time to catchup on the past 6 1/2 month of my life and theirs. On Wednesday, they took me their favorite Chinese restaurant in Tampa (P.F. Chang's). Fabulous. Get those images of the all you can eat Chinese buffets out of your head peeps, this place is fine dining at its oriental best. If you're ever in Tampa check it out.

On Thursday my mom planned a day of pampering for the both of us. After breakfast we headed down to the spa for manicures and pedicures. I laughed when she told me because I was immediately reminded of a conversation myself and the divas had somewhere in New York about getting a pedicure by a small Vietnamese women. "No help for you" we joked about our calloused, dirty feet. Yet there I was soaking my feet in some kind of mineral bath, relaxing in a massage chair as this little Vietnamese woman worked her wonders. The callouses are still there, but my toes are clean and pretty :)

After our manicures and pedicures we headed off to do the next obvious pampering event; getting ourselves stabbed a million times with a needle. Yep that's right, my mom and I went and got tattoos together. Never in a million years would I have thought that this is what I would be doing when returning home from the trail. And not only was I getting a tattoo with my mom but she helped me design mine. I would have thought that it was all a dream but the million needle stabs in my arm were way to realistic.


Once I was newly decorated and clean it was time to pack up the car and head back to Gainesville. I couldn't wait to see Jasmine, my 7 year old cocker spaniel. As I approached the back door I could hear her familar bark. It took me a minute to get the door unlocked but soon enough she was darting out the back door, tail wagging. Oh how I missed her! For the next few hours I spent the evening with her and my cat, Grey-Grey (who made it very clear that she was unhappy about my long departure). Its hard to believe I'm actually siting in my house. I still haven't comprehended that I won't be hiking anymore. I'm not sure if I ever will.

Today's Video's:

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

What Did I Carry?


My gear list constantly evolved throughout my hike. The list below is what I ended with.  I did not go through the pain-staking process of weighing each item. I had a general rule of thumb; if the item weighed more then 2lbs., then I needed to seriously reconsider its existence within my pack. In the end I weighed my entire pack. My pack weight varied throughout the hike depending on how much food, water...and wine I was carrying, but it ranged between 25-35 lbs, with an average of around 30 lbs. I also refused to sacrifice comfort for weight (within reason). For example, a frameless light-weight backpack like a granite gear or a go-lite pinnacle certainly weighed less then my Osprey Aerial 65, however, the Aerial carried the weight much more efficiently and comfortably.

The Big Four

Backpack:  Osprey Aerial 65
Pack Liner: Contractor Bag
Tent: Big Agnes Seedhouse UL2
Ground Cloth: Tyvek
Sleeping Pad: Thermorest Prolite Plus (Women's)
Sleeping Bag: Western Mountainaring Versalite (10 deg) - I sleep cold and took this the entire way

Winter Clothes

2 pairs REI long thermal underwear
1 Long sleeve, REI dry wick shirt
1 Mont Bell Thermawrap Jacket
1 Cabella's Lightweight Fleece
1 pair Colombia Titanium Fleece lined pants
1 REI fleece lined beanie
1 pair of black diamond gloves

Summer Clothes

(Note: I also carried summer clothes during winter)
1 pair New Balance Running Shorts
2 short sleeve dry wick shirt
3 pairs smart wool socks
2 pairs patagonia underwear
1 sports bra
1 pair REI gators

Shoes

Keens (Started with these)
Vasque Trail Runners
Montrail Hardrocks
Crocs (Camp-Shoes)

Rain Gear

Go-Lite Rain Pants
Marmont Precip
Sea to Summit Pack Cover

Kitchen

MRS Kettle Pot
Pocket Rocket
Canister Fuel
Titanium Spork
Cleaning: small piece of a towel, camp soap, and scrubby pad 
2 Stuff Sacks - one for kitchen supplies, 1 for food
lighter


Bathroom

Stuff Sack
Travel size toothbrush
Travel size tooth paste
Wet-wipes
Handkerchief (Pee-Rag)
Travel size shampoo and condition
Razor
Hair Comb 
Extra Hair-Tie


First-Aid

Stuff Sack
Variety of Pain meds (vitamin I, tylenol, aleve)
Band-aids (about 2-3)
Mole-skin 
Benedryl
Athletic Tape


Miscellanous

Trekking Poles
iTouch (music and jounaling) and charger
Cell Phone and charger
Headlamp
Camera (Sony cybershot) and charger
Extra batteries for headlamp
Buff
Bear Rope
Carabeaner
Duct Tape 
Water bottles were empty Gatorade bottles
Aquamiria
Watch (cheap one from Wal-mart)

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Day 202 - I Made It

Day 202
Saturday 9/19/09

Weather:
Light rain in the early morning, high winds (gusts 50-55 mph), ice and snow

Today's Hike:
Birches Campsite to Katadhin (Baxter Peak) and back - 10.4 miles

If I had to sum up my final day on the AT in a single word I think it just might have to be "insanity". Grommet and I were both up at 4am. Actually I never really slept. I just laid in my sleeping bag all night listening to the wind howl and praying to the weather gods that today would still be a beautiful day. It wasn't until 4am that I actually sat up and packed my bag. After packing up we made our way back to the ranger station to get water and make breakfast. This morning it was oatmeal and coffee, a first for me (well the oatmeal anyway). The wind was still howling and in the midst of boiling water the sky started to spit on us. Are you freakin' kidding me? Really? Today it's gonna rain? Of all the days days it was gonna rain today? No, no, no, no, no. This would only be temporary. It had to be. We at breakfast and drank our coffee under the shelter of the ranger stations front porch. We didn't say much but we were both thinking the same thing; this sucks.

After breakfast we made our way down to the trailhead and signed in at the base of the mountain. We were the first two on the trail that day. No one else was ambitious enough to start before 5:30am. At least we had motivation on our side. After registering we continued up the mountian. The first 2 - 2.5 miles were pretty easy going. The rain let up and the sky remained overcast but the high winds kept the clouds moving quickly. We were hoping they were moving away from the mountain and lending way to clear blue skies.

Somewhere around mile 2.5 we reached treeline where we were presented with enormous boulders. Holy cow...we had to climb those...for like a mile...straight up......and it was windy....really, really, really windy. Good times lay ahead. We packed away our trekking poles and began our rock climbing ascent toward Baxter Peak. The wind was insane, very remenscent of my first wind storm over Max Patch. Not so strong that I couldn't move (like the wind storm over the humps) but strong enough to knock you around a little. I could totally handle this. Then came mile three on our ascent; three miles down two to go. It was around this point that ice began appearing between boulders, then as we continued to move up in the windy, bouldery terrain the ice between the boulders spread to being on the boulders. Great. Then the ice on the boulders gave way to snow and ice covered boulders. Freakin' fantastic. We took shelter behind a boulder and took a minute to add another layer of clothes. It was then that Grom and I also had a fairly serious come to jesus meeting with the current situation. Keep going up or turn around and go back? This was nothing we haven't been through before, but it wasn't ideal either. If it started to rain, sleet, or snow we would be in trouble. But this was it. This was our one shot at summitting. We had to leave town that night. It was now or not at all. The clouds were moving fast. The forecast called for the skies to clear up as the day progressed. We were going up.

The last two miles were slow going as we fought against the wind and maintained careful footing up and over the icey rocks. As we neared the summit of Katadhin, the sun was fighting to shine through. We could see the clouds parting way. It was clearing up, but the winds weren't dying down. Still, something was better then nothing. Ahead of me I could see the summit sign. It was covered in snow and ice. We would be the first to summit that day. We reached the top around 10am and sat down. We had the mountain to ourselves. Grom looked at me and asked if I thought we were "badassess" for continuing our summit. I replied that I thought we were "dumbassess." We both laughed. At that moment the sun came out and the clouds behind us parted offering a clear view of the Knifes Edge and surrounding mountains. Incredible.


We took only a few moments at the summit. The winds were still to high, and sitting still for to long was cold and uncomfortable. We stayed long enough to take our pictures and enjoy a sunlit view of what at the moment felt like it could be the top of the world.




Our hike down the mountain was incredible. The winds were still ridicuously high but the views were amazing. The sky had completely cleared up and we had nearly 360 views the entire way down. Absolutely breathtaking.


When we reached the bottom, Grommet's friend Twix (SOBO 2007) was there to pick us up. We hopped into her car along with Hobbit, Nickers, and Shark who had just completed their slackpack from abol bridge to the birches and headed into Millinocket for food and showers. We at lunch/dinner at the AT Cafe. Round one for me was a veggie Burger and french friens and round two was the Cafe's famous 14 scoop Sunday. Ok, so I didn't eat the whole sunday by myself, I shared it with Grom and Twix, but still, thats like eatting almost a 5 scoop sunday all to myself. Yummy! We also added our signatures to the 2009 ceiling tiles while we were there and had fun checking out who else had finished their through hike at the Cafe.




After eatting we headed over to the AT Lodge for a quick shower. By 7pm we were on our way to Boston, MA. By midnight we were at Twix's apartment and by 12:30am I was out like a light. What a day.

Today's Video's:

Friday, September 18, 2009

Day 201

Day 201
Friday 9/18/09

Weather:
Overcast with some light rain throughout the morning and early afternoon.

Today's Hike:
Rainbow Springs Campsite to Katadhin Stream Campground (The Birches) - 21.1 miles

Today was a day full of mixed emotions. We woke up and packed early along with Nickers, Hobbit, Shark, and Stats. They set off a few minutes before us and we knew it would most likely be our final good-bye. Grom and I were the last to leave camp; by 7:15 we were headed north. We reached the northern end of the 100 mile Wilderness shortly before lunch and stopped briefly for a video break. It's funny how scary the thought of the 100 miles Wilderness was to me a year ago, yet the past 5.5 days seem like a crazy blur of laughter, sweat, and a few tears, but definitely no fear. A true testament to understanding that thinking about what a thru-hike will be like and what it actually will be like will be two entirely different scenarios.

We stopped at Abol bridge for a quick resuppy. We stayed at the campground during the heaviest rain for the day and ate lunch with Dave, a Baxter State Park Ridge Runner. As we crossed from Abol bridge into the park we were greeted with an army of mosquito's. What the heck? We've gone days without a bug in sight and all of the sudden we were in the middle of a battle field. Luckily Grommet still had some bug spray and we quickly rubbed deet all over our bodies. Bring on the cancer...blast off the bugs.

From the park entrance to the Birches campground was nine easy miles. Still, we seemed to drag it out. We had 2 river crossings. It was probably only appropriate that I slipped on a rock at the very edge of the last river crossing. I came down on my knee and my left foot was soaked. I hate river crossings.

By 7pm we had officially made it. I am sleeping here at the base of Katadhin. This is really it. This was my last full day hiking. This will be my last night sleeping in my tent which means my last night in the woods. Tonight's pasta will be my last trail dinner. I don't want it to end. This, for a lack of better words, totally sucks.

Today's Video's:

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Day 200

Day 200
Thursday 9/17/09

Weather:
Overcast with some light rain.

Today's Hike:
Potaywadjo Spring Lean-To to Rainbow Springs Campsite - 22.0 miles

So much for today being as easy as yesterday. Can we say roots? Roots, roots, roots. That's all there was; roots. I could barely see the ground. Roots equals tedious which equals draining. Ugh! If I never have to walk through roots again it just may be to soon.

On an upside I saw Katadhin twice today and shes still as massive and beautiful as she appeared to be from the top of White Cap. The first siting was this morning from Pemadumcook Lake and the second was this afternoon from the viewpoint of Nesundabunt Mountain. Even when I see her I still can't believe it. I'm not sure if I'll ever really comprehend what it is I've been doing out here.

Grom and I stopped at Wadleigh Lean-To for lunch today where we met up with Nickers, Hobbit, Shark, and Stats. Nickers and Hobbit have officially dubed Grom and I as the Paparazzi Team. We can go with that :) Although it should be made clear that Grom is the queen of paparazzi's. Think of me as the paparazzi apprentice...learning from the master of the trade :)

It was a late night into camp tonight, we night hiked the last 4.0 miles. Luckily we were joined by a rather large deer and serenaded by loons. Who gets to have that on their nightly exercise? Man, I'm really gonna miss trail life :)

Today's Video's:

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Day 199

Day 199
Wednesday 9/16/09

Weather:
Overcast with some light morning rain.

Today's Hike: Logon Brook Lean-To to Potaywadjo Spring Lean-To - 23.1 miles

Wow, today was my biggest mile day on the trail ever and we made it in record timing. I haven't felt this accomplished in weeks! We got an early start this very cold morning (it was in the upper 30's) and started making headway along mostly flat terrain. We only had to climb a single mountain today, boardman, which wasn't much of a climb at all. The sky started spitting on us as we were nearing the summit, but it didn't last long.

We knocked out the first 11.7 miles by lunch and took a break at Cooper Falls Lean-To. This place was beautiful. There was a nice cascading waterfall with a large swimming hole in front of the shelter. To bad it was so cold....would have been an awesome swimming spot.

The afternoon was completely flat with little maneuvering around rocks and roots. What a treat! We took our next break at Antlers Campsite where apparently LL Bean shoots some of their ads at. I can see why, this campsite was gorgeous! The site itself sits on the edge of Jo-Mary Lake. Tonight the water was completely calm, like glass. This place was the essence of serenity.

We made it to our final destination by 7pm. For the first time in what feels like forever we weren't night hiking into camps. This equates to early shut-eye. Score! Tomorrow will be another long day; 22 miles. I hope the terrain will be as easy as it was today......

Today's Video's: