Day 183

Day 183
Monday 8/31/09

Weather: Sunny, No Rain

Today's Hike: Southarm Rd. - 0.0 miles

OK, I know that I've said that I didn't want to take anymore zero days until we finished this thing, but how can you hike the AT and NEVER take a zero in the woods? You can't. So today Grommet (Grom) and I zeroed in the woods and it was the best zero day on the trail. Nothing but relaxation and pure bliss. Somewhere around noon I finally climbed out of the tent to find Nutmeg and Billy Hoot also still at camp. Sweet, zero day company :) Unfortunately, Nutmeg was having a migraine. So Grom and I went into town, picked up pizzas for everyone and some med's for Nutmeg and made our way back to camp.

After an exhausting 3 hours in town (sense the sarcasm), I took another 2 hour nap and awoke sometime around 7pm, apparently just in time to find David (Pine Ellis hostel owner) at our campsite with an 18 pack of Bud. And of course, Grom was back to knocking down trees and making an out of control bonfire. Didn't I say best zero ever???


Zero Day Company!


Grom Getting Firewood

Day 182

Day 182
Sunday 8/30/09

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today's Hike:
East B Hill Rd. to South Arm Rd. Campsite - 10.1 miles

Day 181

Day 181
Saturday 8/29/09
Weather: Rain all day
Today's Hike: Dunn Notch to East B Hill Rd. - 0.8 miles

It started raining at 2am and continued through the morning. We packed
up in the rain and made the short uphill hike to the road. Despite the
short distance I still managed to fall on my face once. Dam those wet
tree roots. What the heck are they doing just stickin' up in the
middle of the trail? Total hiking hazard.

Once we made it into Andover we started on our town chores; post
office, resupply, library..... and a stop over at the Red Hen for an
early lunch.



My stopover in the library brought on an unsettling
surprise; all of the AT pictures previously posted on the blog are
gone. It will take some time when I get home to round up pictures
again, but when I do I'll post a note to let everyone know they're
back up.

The rain was still coming down once we were done with our chores and
the temperature was quickly dropping. The locals kept telling us how
bad the weather was going to get over the next few hours and they were
strongly discouraging us from hiking out. We didn't need much
encouragement and we were soon standing on the front porch of Pine
Ellis Hostel. Apparently every hiker within a 20 mile radius received
the same news and they were also in town. We met back up with Billy
Hoot and Nutmeg, Inc., and Prairiedog and Angry Beaver. We also met
Whispy and Gritty McDuff who made for great company.

We all ate dinner at the local general store; pizza and Dr. Pepper,
and turned in early for the night. The bunk room is full of grey
beards, hope we'll catch some shut-eye.

Day 180

Day 180
Friday 8/28/09
Weather:
Sunny, no rain
Today's Hike:
Grafton Notch to Dunn Notch - 9.5 miles

Today was the perfect hiking day. For the first time in what feels like weeks I was pumped to hike. I was well rested, well fed, and just in an overall good mood. I felt like me again.

Our big climb for the day was Baldpate Mtn., and it was well worth the effort (rock scrambling included). As I sat at the summit with Grommet I thought aloud that this was what hiking was suppose to be; a kick your ass climb with a sweet reward for your efforts. The view was spectacular; the kind that makes you realize just how small you really are, but just how great life really is. As I stood looking down and around at the ranges around me I could see what I had accomplished behind me and what my future would hold. Still, nothing was more relaxing then enjoying the very moment I had just accomplished, looking out lush green mountain ranges nestled under clear blue skies, and feeling the fresh cool breeze against my skin. Heaven.









Tonight where tenting next to a waterfall, a sweet way to fall asleep.
"It's a great day to be alive, the sun still shining when I close my eyes....Why can't everyday be just as good?"

Day 179

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Camping to Grafton Notch - 4.0 miles

A review of our food bags last night told us that there was no way we were gonna make it to our next intended resupply point. Grommet had completely ran out of food and I only had enough food to get through another day. So we went into Grafton Notch where we were treated to an incredible lunch at the Sunday Brewery thanks to some amazing trail angels from Georgia.







After lunch they took us back to the campsite where we resupplied for a day and headed to Stony Brook Campsite for the night. There we showered and did laundry. It's another cold night, and I'm looking forward to zipping up in my sleeping bag.

Day 178

Weather:
Overcast, some morning rain, clear evening

Today’s Hike:
Full Goose Shelter to Camping - 5.6 miles

This morning we headed out early to tackle the Mahoosuc Notch, the "hardest mile on the AT". This mile is hard because it's a series of boulders that hikers must climb over, under, around, and through. It really wasn't hard, just extremely time consuming. So time consuming that we didn't make our miles for the day and stopped short. The weather is turning cold overnight, and the thermometer on my pack is already reading 35 degrees. I'm guessing the heat wave is over.

Day 177

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Success Trail to Full Goose Shelter - 5.8 miles

This morning we headed into Maine. As we sat on the border for a snack break it was a moment of reflection. Surreal is the only word that comes to mind. I did it. I have actually walked from northern Georgia to southern Maine. Although I still have 282 miles to go, the accomplishment of making it this far is beyond my comprehension.

We made it to camp early after crossing the 1900 mile mark and I passed out at 7pm and slept through to the next morning.

Day 176

Weather:
Rain.

Today’s Hike:
Trident Col Campsite to Success Trail 8.3 miles

Yesterday’s rain continued throughout the night and into late this morning. We waited out a morning downpour and left camp by 11am. We still got dumped on. Ugh! The hike in the rain was a tough one. The trail has gone from a nice dirt trail with some rocks, some boulders, and some roots to being a constant slab of vertical rock spaced between over-sized boulders, gnarly tree roots and rock slab staircases. I didn't realize my thru-hike would involve so much rock climbing with 35 lbs. on my back.

On the lighter note, we found a moose skeleton on the side of the trail this morning.  For whatever reason, Grom felt the need to pick up the rib cage and smell it. The look of disgust on her face was enough to make my day.




Grommet's face after smelling the carcass...zoom in to see the disgust

As we reached the summit of Mt. Success the sun was starting to set and the skies were beginning to clear. Our entrance into Maine will have to wait until the morning.

Day 175

Weather:
Rain.

Today’s Hike:
Gorham, NH to Trident Col Campsite - 6.9 miles

Today’s plan was to hike 17 miles. By mile four we were both dragging and in disparate need of sleep not to mention that I was just in a foul mood and unhappy with my heavy pack. Somewhere around mile five it started to rain so by mile seven it was an easy decision to stop early, pitch our tents, and sleep through the rain.

Day 174

Day 174
Saturday 8/22/09
Weather: Sunny, no rain
Today's Hike:
Gorham, NH/White Birches Campground - 0.0 miles

Grommet and I both slept in late this morning, and got a late start on our town chores. After showering and starting laundry we headed into town for resupply and breakfast. We ate breakfast/lunch at Welches that served up the best omelete's on the trail. Next, we headed to Walmart on the other side of town to resupply. By the time we were done and back at the campground it was nearly 5pm. So much for hiking out today. Instead, we set our tents up again and turned in early for the night. Hopefully tomorrow we'll have the energy to make up the miles.

Day 173

Day 173
Friday 8/21/09
Weather: afternoon/evening rain

Today's Hike:
Pinkham Notch to Gorham, NH - 21.1 miles

Today we slackpacked the last 21 miles in the White Mountains. It was a hard day, but a fun one. We climbed over Wildcat Mountain in the morning and I was thankful to be doing it without a full pack. The rain held off till lunch time where we dipped into Carter Hut for some hot potato dill soup and crackers.

After filling our bellies (maybe a little to full?) we headed out to tackle the Carter Range. If the climb wasn't hard enough we had the added challenge of making it through it in a thunderstorm. Good times. As we neared dinner time we were summitting Mt. Morhiah, the last mountain in the Whites. We finished around 10:30pm , tired, wet, and exhausted but feeling like a total bad- ass.

Day 172

Day 172
Wednesday 8/20/09
Weather: sunny, no rain
Today's Hike: Edmands Col to Pinkham Notch - 10.0 miles

This mornings hike was tough over Madison. We climbed up and down boulder fields for about 3 miles which felt like a lifetime. At least the weather was good.





The last five miles for the day were pretty decent, and we were able to get through them in about 2.5 hours which was a nice surprise. Tonight we went into Gorham, NH and are staying at the White Birches campground. They offer a 21 mile slackpack from Pinkham Notch back to here. The thought of hiking 21 miles in the Whites is a little intimidating, but I'm up for the challenge. So tomorrow morning Grommet and I will be heading out early for a long, tough day.

Day 171

Weather:
Afternoon Rain

Today’s Hike:
Mizpah Hut to Edmands Col - 9.6 miles

This morning Rocket and Storm left early and I hiked out with Grommet. Our climb up to Mt. Washington was incredible; the sky was clear, the sun was shining and it was just windy enough to help keep me cool. As we approached the summit of Washington the clouds rolled in and the wind picked up. Typical Mt. Washington weather.



After dealing with some unnecessary high school drama Grommet and I separated ourselves to grab lunch from the snack bar. An egg salad sandwich has never tasted so good.

Our hike down Washington was a cold, rainy, windy one. When the rain broke we found a sweet campsite at Edmands Col, and took shelter from rainstorms that were still rolling in.

Day 170

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Crawford Notch to Mizpah Hut - 6.4 miles

This morning I left Crawford Notch with the Packadivas and we started our hard climb up the Presidential range in the White Mountains. The skies were clear, the sun was beating down, and the views were incredible. We were also on a water shortage and somehow had to ration our 2 liters of water per person over the next six miles. Not easy. By the time we reached Mizpah most of us were out of water and utterly exhausted. We decided to cut our day short and do our first work for stay at the hut.

After a wonderful hot lasagna dinner we did our chores (I had to clean the freezer) and relaxed for the night. I spent my time in front of the hut with Grommet, stargazing for the first night in a long time. It was beautiful. After almost falling asleep on a rock outside, I made my way upstairs and turned in for the night.

Day 169

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Mt. Guyot to Crawford Notch - 11.3 miles


On top of Mt. Guyot

Day 168

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Little Haystack Mtn. to Mt. - 12.0 miles

Day 167

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Kinsman Pond Shelter to Little Haystack Mtn. - 9.5 miles

 
View of Franconia Ridge from Haystack Mountain





Sunset on Haystack Mountain

Day 166

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Kinmans Notch to Kinsman Pond Shelter - 11.5 miles

 

Day 165

Weather:
Overcast, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Glencliff to Kinmans Notch - 9.5 miles




 
Stairs coming down from Kinsman

Day 164

Weather:
Rain on and off throughout the day.

Today’s Hike:
Glencliff, NH/Hikers Welcome Hostel - 0.0 miles

Living out here brings on a sense of inner stillness that invites you to listen if you let yourself be aware enough. The babble of your everyday thoughts slowly fades away and you begin to become aware of that inner voice you've silenced. That voice that is your sixth sense but that you've skillfully learned to rationalize with and instead have let yourself live with the idea of how life should be. It becomes a rude and painful awakening when all at once you choose to stop rationalizing with that voice, and rather choose to get real and listen. No one ever wants to see the faults of their ways and how not only those faults have affected themselves, but how those faults have affected others as well.

Once the truth of your life is recognized it cannot be ignored. So it was at this point, the point of true self-honesty that I found myself admitting that I no longer wanted to go back to the life I was living. I no longer wanted to rationalize with that inner voice. I no longer wanted to coexist within a life partnership with someone I had spent the last nine years building my entire life around. I wanted to know who I was and wanted to rediscover what I had let myself lose.

And so it was. This realization has not only altered my life but my thru-hike as well. Muster and I have split and began separate hikes; I am hiking with the Packadivas and she is hiking with Billy Hoot and Nutmeg. I will continue on to Katadhin and will return to a new life when I'm done. I know it won't be easy, but I'm ready to see what the future has to offer.

Day 163

Weather:
Rain

Today’s Hike:
Dancing Bones Commune to Glencliff, NH - 8.1 miles

Today we walked into Glencliff, NH by 2pm in the midst of a thunderstorm. I’m currently prepping to start the100 mile trek through the White Mountains. This section of trail has the reputation of being the toughest part on the AT, where much of the trail will be above treeline meaning we'll be at the mercy of the weather. Hope to be through the Whites and into Maine within the next nine days, then its on the home stretch. I’ll see what the weather brings.

Day 162

Weather:
No Rain

Today’s Hike:
Fire Wardens Cabin to Dancing Bones Commune - 12.0 miles

Tonight we are staying at a place called Dancing Bones, a hippie commune in the middle of no-where. Way to much fun!!!!! One of the guests here is teaching the girls circle dances, and Grommet and I watched from a distance laughing our butts off. I'm sure I would have enjoyed the dancing, but being a spectator was way to entertaining.

Glencliff, NH tomorrow then off to the White Mountains!

Day 161

Weather:Rain.

Today’s Hike:
Moose Mountain Shelter to Fire Wardens Cabin

Day 160

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Campsite to Moose Mountain Shelter - 13.0 miles

We made it. We walked into Hanover, NH this at 7:30 this morning. It’s been a long two days. I’ve spent much of my time thinking about what’s important and evaluating my own self worth. On the way into Hanover I vented to Grommet about much of what was on my mind and received exactly the words of advice that I needed to hear, “You already know what you need to do, you just need to do it.” She was right. I’ve known for a while what I needed, but somehow I always talked myself out of it. I took a deep breath and headed to breakfast.

After breakfast I headed over to the local outfitter and got a new pair of hiking shoes. My Keens are KILLING my feet. This time I went with Montrail Hardrocks. We have about 500 miles to go so these should get me to Katadhin (fingers crossed).

Next stop was the local grocery store….one of the best resupplies on the trail ☺ By 11am we were headed toward our next stop of the day; Tigger’s Tree House for showers and laundry.

We were done with laundry and showers sometime late afternoon and made it back to the trail with enough daylight to make it to the shelter for the night. Two town stops and we still made our intended destination. BIG pat on the back! It was a tough 2 days, but it was worth it.

Day 159

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Dana Mountain to Campsite - 21.0 miles

Day 158

Weather:
Sunny, no rain.

Today’s Hike:
Kent Pond to Dana Mountain - 20.5 miles

Day 157

Weather:
Rain.

Today’s Hike:
Inn at Long Trail to Kent Pond - 4.0 miles

After another fabulous breakfast at the Inn, we headed out. The skies were looking grey, and the hike was slow going. Muster took off ahead of us and we expected not to see her until lunch. However, we stumbled upon her at Kent pond behind Mountain Meadows Lodge. A rainstorm was headed in our direction so we decided to go up and take shelter. Here we met Alice, the resident potbelly pig. We chowed down on Ben and Jerries and waited for the rain to pass. When the clouds broke, we headed outside and got sucked into playing with the rest of the farm animals. As we started to get ready to leave Muster started talking about staying on a working farm that we had been seeing flyers for. The truth was she was hung over from her margarita binge and she didn’t want to hike the 15 miles that we needed to. The working farm wasn’t an option because of price, however, the discussion inevitably turned to staying at Mountain Meadows. After a heavy debate we all decided to stay the night at the lodge.

The consequence; we must hike to Hanover, NH in the next 2 days to get back on the schedule we made ourselves back at Manchester Center, VT. This meant that we had to hike 42 miles through the rest of VT in 2 days, not an easy proposition. I had never hiked more then 19 miles in a single day, and the Divas had never hiked more then 20. Still, we decided to stay. Part of me is looking forward to the challenge while another part is a bit overwhelmed. I guess we’ll see what the next 2 days brings. At least the long days will leave me plenty of time to maul over my life and think about what I really want to go back to after the trail; a topic heavy on my mind lately.